Bleaching your hair can dramatically transform your look, opening up a world of vibrant colors and exciting styles. However, the process itself can be harsh, leaving your hair brassy, yellow, or orange. Toner swoops in as the superhero, neutralizing these unwanted tones and leaving you with the cool, ashy, or neutral blonde you desire. But what happens when your bleached hair isn’t fresh? Can you use toner on old bleached hair? The answer is a resounding yes, but with a few caveats and considerations. Let’s dive into the details.
Understanding Toner and Its Purpose
Toner is a product designed to correct or neutralize unwanted undertones in bleached or lightened hair. It works by depositing pigments that counteract the brassiness, yellowness, or orange hues that often appear after bleaching. Think of it as a color corrector for your hair. Toner doesn’t lift the color of your hair; it simply adjusts the tone.
The Science Behind Toning
Bleaching lifts the natural pigment from your hair, exposing the underlying warm tones. Darker hair tends to pull more orange, while lighter hair often shows yellow undertones. Toner contains pigments that are opposite these colors on the color wheel. For example, purple toner neutralizes yellow, while blue toner cancels out orange. By depositing these complementary pigments, toner creates a more balanced and desirable hair color.
Types of Toner Available
Toner comes in various forms, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. The most common types include:
- Demi-Permanent Toner: This is the most popular option as it’s gentle and doesn’t contain ammonia. It deposits color without lifting the hair’s natural pigment and lasts for about 24-28 washes.
- Semi-Permanent Toner: This type deposits color only and fades quickly, usually within 6-8 washes. It’s ideal for experimenting with different tones or for those who want a subtle change.
- Permanent Toner: While less common, permanent toners provide the most long-lasting results. However, they also contain ammonia and can be more damaging to the hair. They are generally used for significant color corrections.
Choosing the right type depends on your hair’s condition, your desired level of commitment, and the severity of the unwanted tones.
Toning Old Bleached Hair: Key Considerations
While toner can be used on old bleached hair, it’s essential to consider several factors to ensure optimal results and prevent further damage.
Assessing Hair Condition
Before applying any toner, it’s crucial to assess the condition of your hair. Bleached hair is inherently more porous and fragile than unbleached hair. If your hair is already dry, brittle, or damaged from previous bleaching or heat styling, applying toner without proper care could exacerbate these issues.
Perform a strand test before applying toner to your entire head. This will help you determine how your hair will react to the product and prevent any unwanted surprises. Look for signs of breakage, excessive dryness, or a gummy texture. If your hair shows any of these signs, focus on repairing and strengthening it before toning.
Understanding the Underlying Tone
Identifying the specific undertones you want to neutralize is crucial for selecting the right toner. If your hair is yellow, a purple-based toner is your go-to. If it’s orange, opt for a blue-based toner. If you’re unsure, consult with a professional stylist who can analyze your hair and recommend the best toner for your needs.
Incorrectly identifying the underlying tone can lead to undesirable results, such as green or muddy-looking hair. Taking the time to properly assess your hair’s color will save you from potential hair disasters.
Porosity and Toner Absorption
The porosity of your hair refers to its ability to absorb and retain moisture. Bleached hair tends to be more porous due to the damage caused by the bleaching process. Highly porous hair absorbs toner quickly, which can lead to uneven color distribution or overly toned areas.
If your hair is highly porous, consider using a protein filler or a deep conditioning treatment before toning. This will help to even out the porosity and ensure that the toner is absorbed more evenly. It’s also important to monitor your hair closely during the toning process and rinse the toner out as soon as you achieve the desired result.
Choosing the Right Toner Shade
Selecting the correct toner shade is crucial for achieving the desired result. Toner shades are typically labeled with a number and a letter. The number indicates the level of lightness or darkness, while the letter represents the undertone (e.g., ash, gold, violet).
When choosing a toner shade, consider your current hair color and the desired result. If you want to achieve a cool, ashy blonde, opt for a toner with a violet or blue base. If you prefer a warmer, golden blonde, choose a toner with a gold or beige base. It’s always better to err on the side of caution and choose a toner that is slightly lighter than your desired shade. You can always tone again if needed.
Preparing Your Hair for Toning
Proper preparation is essential for ensuring that your hair is in the best possible condition before toning. This will help to minimize damage and maximize the effectiveness of the toner.
Deep Conditioning Treatments
Before toning old bleached hair, treat your hair with a deep conditioning mask or treatment. This will help to replenish moisture, repair damage, and improve the overall health of your hair. Look for deep conditioners that contain ingredients like keratin, argan oil, or shea butter.
Apply the deep conditioner to clean, damp hair and leave it on for at least 20-30 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and gently towel-dry your hair before proceeding with the toning process.
Protein Treatments
Bleaching can strip your hair of its natural protein, leaving it weak and prone to breakage. If your hair feels particularly fragile, consider using a protein treatment before toning. Protein treatments help to strengthen the hair shaft and improve its elasticity.
Use protein treatments sparingly, as overuse can lead to dryness and brittleness. Follow the instructions on the product label carefully and avoid using protein treatments more than once or twice a month.
Clarifying Shampoo
Using a clarifying shampoo before toning can help to remove any buildup of product or minerals from your hair. This will ensure that the toner is able to penetrate the hair shaft and deposit color evenly.
Avoid using clarifying shampoo too frequently, as it can strip your hair of its natural oils. Once a month is generally sufficient.
Strand Test: A Must-Do
We’ve mentioned it before, but it’s worth repeating: always perform a strand test before applying toner to your entire head. This will allow you to see how your hair will react to the toner and prevent any unwanted surprises.
Apply the toner to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair, such as a strand near your nape. Follow the instructions on the product label and monitor the strand closely. If you’re happy with the result, you can proceed with toning your entire head. If not, you may need to adjust the toner shade or the processing time.
The Toning Process: Step-by-Step
Now that you’ve prepared your hair, it’s time to apply the toner. Follow these steps for best results:
Gathering Your Supplies
Before you begin, gather all the supplies you’ll need:
- Toner
- Developer (if required by your toner)
- Mixing bowl
- Applicator brush
- Gloves
- Old towel
- Hair clips
- Timer
Having everything within reach will make the process smoother and less stressful.
Mixing the Toner
If your toner requires developer, mix it according to the instructions on the product label. Use a non-metallic mixing bowl and applicator brush. Follow the recommended ratio of toner to developer to avoid damaging your hair. Always use the developer volume recommended by the toner manufacturer.
Applying the Toner
Apply the toner to clean, damp hair. Section your hair into small, manageable sections and apply the toner evenly from root to tip. Use the applicator brush to ensure that each strand is thoroughly coated.
If you’re only toning specific areas, such as highlights or balayage, apply the toner precisely to those areas. Be careful not to overlap the toner onto previously toned hair, as this can lead to uneven color.
Processing Time
The processing time for toner varies depending on the product and the desired result. Follow the instructions on the product label carefully and monitor your hair closely.
Check your hair every few minutes to see how the toner is developing. If you’re happy with the result, rinse the toner out immediately. Leaving the toner on for too long can result in overly toned or damaged hair.
Rinsing and Conditioning
Once the processing time is complete, rinse the toner out of your hair thoroughly with cool water. Use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner to help seal in the color and protect your hair.
Avoid using hot water, as this can cause the color to fade more quickly. Cool water helps to close the hair cuticle and lock in moisture.
Post-Toning Care
After toning your hair, it’s essential to provide it with extra care to keep it healthy and vibrant.
- Use color-safe shampoo and conditioner.
- Avoid washing your hair too frequently.
- Use heat protectant before styling.
- Deep condition regularly.
- Trim split ends.
By following these tips, you can help to prolong the life of your toner and keep your hair looking its best.
Dealing with Common Toning Problems
Even with careful preparation and application, toning can sometimes go wrong. Here are some common problems and how to fix them:
Uneven Toning
Uneven toning can occur if the toner is not applied evenly or if the hair is not evenly porous. To fix uneven toning, you can try applying toner again to the areas that are lighter or more brassy. You can also try using a color-depositing shampoo or conditioner to even out the tone.
Over-Toning
Over-toning can result in hair that is too ashy, gray, or even green. To fix over-toning, you can try washing your hair with a clarifying shampoo to remove some of the toner. You can also try using a warm-toned hair mask to add warmth back to your hair.
Toner Not Taking
If the toner doesn’t seem to be working, it could be due to several factors. Your hair may not be light enough, the toner may be too weak, or your hair may be too damaged to absorb the toner. To fix this, you may need to lighten your hair further, use a stronger toner, or repair your hair before toning again.
When to Seek Professional Help
While you can tone your hair at home, there are times when it’s best to seek professional help. If your hair is severely damaged, if you’re unsure about the correct toner shade, or if you’ve had negative experiences with toning in the past, consult with a professional stylist. They can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the best toner for your needs, and ensure that the process is done safely and effectively.
Toning old bleached hair is possible and can yield beautiful results. By understanding the process, assessing your hair’s condition, and following the steps carefully, you can achieve the perfect blonde or neutral tone you’ve always wanted. Remember to prioritize your hair’s health and seek professional help when needed.