Grey hair – it’s a natural part of aging, a badge of wisdom for some, and a source of frustration for others. For those seeking to camouflage those silver strands, the question often arises: do highlights and lowlights effectively cover grey hair? The answer, as with most hair-related queries, is nuanced and depends on several factors. Let’s delve deep into the world of hair color and explore how highlights and lowlights can be strategically employed to manage and blend grey hair.
Understanding Grey Hair and Hair Coloring
Before we discuss the specifics of highlights and lowlights, it’s crucial to understand the nature of grey hair and how hair coloring works. Hair gets its color from melanin, a pigment produced by cells called melanocytes. As we age, melanocyte activity slows down, resulting in less melanin production and, consequently, grey or white hair.
Hair color, on the other hand, works by either depositing color onto the hair shaft or by lifting the existing color and depositing a new one. Permanent hair color opens the hair cuticle, allowing the dye to penetrate the hair shaft. This process often involves using ammonia and peroxide to lift the natural color and deposit the new color. Semi-permanent and demi-permanent colors deposit color on the surface of the hair without significantly altering the natural color.
The Challenges of Coloring Grey Hair
Grey hair presents unique challenges compared to hair that still retains its natural pigment. Firstly, grey hair often has a different texture. It can be coarser and less porous than pigmented hair, making it more resistant to color absorption. This resistance means that the hair color may not take as well, resulting in a less vibrant or longer-lasting color.
Secondly, the lack of melanin in grey hair means that the colorist is essentially working with a blank canvas. This requires careful color selection to ensure that the chosen shade complements the client’s skin tone and natural hair color (if any remains).
Highlights and Lowlights: A Strategic Approach to Grey Coverage
Highlights and lowlights are techniques that involve coloring strands of hair lighter or darker than the base color. These techniques offer a more subtle and dimensional approach to hair color compared to a single-process color application. But can they effectively cover grey hair?
The answer is yes, but not in the traditional sense of complete coverage. Highlights and lowlights are excellent for blending grey hair and creating the illusion of less grey, rather than completely obliterating it. This approach often results in a more natural and low-maintenance look.
How Highlights Work for Grey Hair
Highlights involve lightening strands of hair, typically a few shades lighter than the base color. When used strategically, highlights can blend with grey strands, making them less noticeable. This is particularly effective when the grey hair is scattered throughout the head rather than concentrated in one area.
The key to successful grey blending with highlights is to choose the right shade. Too light of a highlight can accentuate the grey, while a more subtle, natural-looking highlight will blend seamlessly.
Benefits of Highlights for Grey Hair:
- Adds dimension and brightness to the hair.
- Blends grey strands, making them less noticeable.
- Offers a low-maintenance approach to grey coverage.
- Can be customized to suit individual hair types and styles.
- Often requires less frequent touch-ups than all-over color.
How Lowlights Work for Grey Hair
Lowlights involve darkening strands of hair, typically a few shades darker than the base color. While highlights lighten and blend grey, lowlights add depth and dimension, helping to disguise grey hair by creating shadows and visual interest.
Lowlights are particularly useful for those with predominantly grey hair or hair that has become too light due to excessive highlighting. By adding darker strands, the contrast between the grey and the surrounding hair is reduced, resulting in a more balanced and natural look.
Benefits of Lowlights for Grey Hair:
- Adds depth and dimension to the hair.
- Reduces the contrast between grey and pigmented hair.
- Creates a more balanced and natural look.
- Can help to correct overly light or brassy tones.
- Adds richness and warmth to the hair color.
Choosing the Right Combination: Highlights and Lowlights Together
The most effective approach for blending grey hair often involves a combination of both highlights and lowlights. This technique allows for maximum customization and a truly natural-looking result. By strategically placing highlights and lowlights, a skilled colorist can create the illusion of depth, dimension, and movement, effectively camouflaging grey hair.
Factors to Consider When Choosing Highlights and Lowlights
Several factors should be considered when deciding whether highlights and lowlights are the right choice for covering grey hair:
- Percentage of Grey Hair: The amount of grey hair will influence the type and placement of highlights and lowlights. Those with a small percentage of grey may benefit from subtle highlights, while those with mostly grey hair may require a combination of both highlights and lowlights for optimal blending.
- Natural Hair Color: The natural hair color will determine the shades of highlights and lowlights that will best complement the hair and skin tone.
- Skin Tone: The skin tone should also be considered when choosing highlight and lowlight shades. Warm skin tones generally look best with warm-toned highlights and lowlights, while cool skin tones are often complemented by cool-toned shades.
- Hair Texture and Condition: The texture and condition of the hair will affect how well the color takes and how long it lasts. Damaged or dry hair may require special treatment to ensure that the color is evenly distributed and doesn’t cause further damage.
- Maintenance Level: Highlights and lowlights require regular touch-ups to maintain the desired look. The frequency of touch-ups will depend on the rate of hair growth and the contrast between the highlights/lowlights and the base color.
Application Techniques for Grey Blending
The application technique used for highlights and lowlights is crucial for achieving a natural-looking result. Several techniques can be used, depending on the desired effect:
- Foil Highlights/Lowlights: This is a classic technique that involves separating strands of hair and wrapping them in foil to isolate them during the coloring process. Foil highlights/lowlights allow for precise placement and maximum control over the color.
- Balayage: This technique involves hand-painting the highlights/lowlights onto the hair, creating a more natural and blended look. Balayage is particularly well-suited for those who want a low-maintenance style with soft, gradual highlights.
- Babylights: These are very fine, delicate highlights that create a subtle, sun-kissed effect. Babylights are perfect for blending grey hair without a drastic change in color.
The Importance of a Professional Consultation
The best way to determine whether highlights and lowlights are the right choice for covering grey hair is to consult with a professional hair colorist. A skilled colorist can assess your hair type, skin tone, and the percentage of grey hair to recommend the most appropriate color and technique.
A professional consultation also allows you to discuss your desired outcome and maintenance level. The colorist can then create a customized color plan that meets your specific needs and preferences.
Maintaining Your Highlights and Lowlights
Once you’ve achieved the perfect blend of highlights and lowlights, it’s important to maintain the color to keep it looking fresh and vibrant.
- Use Color-Safe Shampoo and Conditioner: These products are formulated to protect the hair color and prevent fading.
- Avoid Over-Washing: Washing the hair too frequently can strip the color and dry out the hair.
- Use Heat Protectant: Heat styling tools can damage the hair and cause the color to fade. Always use a heat protectant spray before using these tools.
- Schedule Regular Touch-Ups: Highlights and lowlights require regular touch-ups to maintain the desired look. The frequency of touch-ups will depend on the rate of hair growth and the contrast between the highlights/lowlights and the base color.
- Consider a Gloss Treatment: Gloss treatments can add shine and vibrancy to the hair color, helping to keep it looking fresh and healthy.
Alternative Grey Coverage Options
While highlights and lowlights are a great option for blending grey hair, they are not the only solution. Other grey coverage options include:
- Single-Process Color: This involves applying one color all over the hair to completely cover the grey. This is a good option for those who want complete grey coverage but requires more frequent touch-ups.
- Demi-Permanent Color: This type of color blends grey and adds shine but doesn’t completely cover it. It is less damaging than permanent color and gradually fades over time.
- Grey Blending Products: These include root touch-up sprays and powders that can temporarily cover grey hair between salon appointments.
Choosing the right grey coverage option depends on individual preferences and needs. Highlights and lowlights offer a natural and low-maintenance approach to blending grey hair, while other options may provide more complete coverage or require less commitment.
Conclusion: Embracing the Blend
Highlights and lowlights offer a strategic and versatile approach to managing grey hair. They don’t offer complete, opaque coverage like a single-process dye job might, but they excel at blending, creating dimension, and adding visual interest that softens the appearance of grey. Whether you’re looking to subtly camouflage a few stray greys or create a more dramatic transformation, highlights and lowlights can be tailored to suit your individual style and preferences. Remember to consult with a professional hair colorist to determine the best approach for your hair type, skin tone, and desired outcome. Embracing the blend is often the most natural and flattering way to navigate the journey of grey hair.
Can highlights and lowlights completely cover all grey hair?
Highlights and lowlights can be a fantastic option for blending grey hair, but they rarely offer complete coverage like a solid, single-process dye. The success of this technique hinges on the percentage of grey hair you have and the desired final look. For those with less than 50% grey, strategically placed highlights and lowlights can camouflage the greys effectively, making them less noticeable as they blend with the surrounding hair color.
However, if you have a higher percentage of grey hair, or if you desire a uniform, solid color, highlights and lowlights might not be the best solution. They primarily work by distributing the grey amongst different shades, creating an illusion of depth and dimension. While this approach softens the contrast between grey and pigmented hair, it doesn’t truly eliminate the grey, and some visible greys might still remain depending on the chosen shades and application technique.
What is the difference between using highlights and lowlights to address grey hair?
Highlights are lighter than your natural hair color and are used to brighten the overall look, drawing attention away from the grey. They add dimension and can make grey hair blend in more seamlessly, especially when strategically placed around the face and part line. They are best for those who want a sun-kissed, multi-tonal effect and are less concerned with complete grey coverage.
Lowlights, on the other hand, are darker than your natural shade. They add depth and contrast, helping to camouflage grey hairs by weaving them into the darker strands. Lowlights are particularly effective for individuals with darker hair who want to avoid a harsh, all-over color and prefer a more subtle blending of greys. The choice between highlights and lowlights (or a combination of both) depends on your natural hair color, the amount of grey, and your desired aesthetic.
Are highlights and lowlights a better option than all-over color for covering grey?
Whether highlights and lowlights are better than all-over color for covering grey depends entirely on individual preferences and hair characteristics. All-over color provides uniform coverage, completely concealing grey hair, which is ideal for those who want a consistent, single-tone look and are less concerned about dimension. However, it can require more frequent touch-ups as roots become visible, and repeated applications can potentially lead to hair damage.
Highlights and lowlights, conversely, offer a more dimensional and natural-looking approach. They can be gentler on the hair than all-over color because they don’t require coloring every strand. This technique also allows for a softer grow-out, making root lines less harsh and reducing the frequency of salon visits. However, they don’t provide complete grey coverage and are better suited for those who prefer a blended, multi-tonal effect and are comfortable with some visible grey.
How do I choose the right highlight and lowlight colors to cover my grey hair effectively?
Choosing the right highlight and lowlight colors is crucial for effectively camouflaging grey hair. A general rule of thumb is to select highlights that are one to two shades lighter than your natural hair color and lowlights that are one to two shades darker. This creates a subtle contrast that adds dimension and blends the greys seamlessly. It’s also essential to consider your skin tone to ensure the chosen shades complement your complexion.
For warmer skin tones, consider opting for highlights with golden or caramel undertones and lowlights with warm brown or auburn hues. Cooler skin tones generally pair well with highlights that have ash blonde or beige undertones, and lowlights in cool brown or chocolate shades. Consulting with a professional colorist is highly recommended, as they can assess your hair and skin tone accurately and recommend the most flattering and effective color combinations for blending your grey hair.
How often do I need to get highlights and lowlights to maintain grey coverage?
The frequency of touch-ups for highlights and lowlights to maintain grey coverage depends on several factors, including the rate of hair growth, the percentage of grey hair, and the desired level of grey blending. Typically, most people find they need a touch-up every 6 to 12 weeks. This allows for new growth to be addressed and the overall color to be refreshed.
If you have a faster hair growth rate or a significant amount of grey hair concentrated at the roots, you might need to visit the salon more frequently. Regular maintenance not only keeps the grey blended but also helps prevent brassiness or fading of the highlights and lowlights. Using color-safe shampoo and conditioner and avoiding excessive heat styling can also help prolong the life of your color and reduce the need for frequent touch-ups.
Can I do highlights and lowlights myself to cover grey hair, or should I go to a professional?
While DIY highlighting and lowlighting kits are available, achieving optimal grey coverage and a professional-looking result is significantly more challenging than it appears. The placement of highlights and lowlights is crucial for effectively blending grey hair, and uneven application can result in a patchy or unnatural appearance. Furthermore, color matching and understanding how different shades will interact with your existing hair color and grey hair requires expertise.
A professional colorist possesses the knowledge and experience to assess your hair type, color, and grey distribution to create a customized color plan that effectively camouflages the grey while complementing your features. They also have access to professional-grade products and tools, ensuring a safer and more predictable outcome. Therefore, for best results and to minimize the risk of damage or color mishaps, it’s generally recommended to entrust the process to a skilled professional.
Are there any downsides to using highlights and lowlights to cover grey hair?
While highlights and lowlights are a popular and effective way to blend grey hair, there are a few potential downsides to consider. One is the potential for damage, particularly if the hair is already dry or brittle. Lightening the hair for highlights can weaken the hair shaft, leading to breakage or split ends, especially if bleach is used improperly or too frequently.
Another downside is that highlights and lowlights don’t provide complete grey coverage, which might not be desirable for everyone. Some grey hairs may still be visible, particularly between salon visits as the roots grow out. Additionally, maintaining highlights and lowlights requires regular salon appointments, which can be a financial commitment. Weighing these factors against the benefits of a more dimensional and natural-looking result is essential when deciding if this method is right for you.