Bleaching your hair opens up a world of vibrant colour possibilities, but it also leaves your hair vulnerable. Understanding what colours work best, how to apply them, and how to care for your newly coloured bleached hair is crucial for achieving your desired look and maintaining healthy locks. Let’s delve into the wonderful world of colouring bleached hair!
Understanding Bleached Hair: The Canvas Before the Masterpiece
Bleach works by lifting the natural pigment from your hair. This process opens the hair cuticle, making it more porous and receptive to new colours. However, this also means bleached hair is more susceptible to damage and colour fading. The level of lift achieved during bleaching directly impacts the colours that will show up accurately.
The Bleaching Scale: Levels of Lift Explained
Hair colourists use a numbering system to denote the levels of lift achieved during bleaching, typically ranging from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). Understanding this scale is crucial for predicting how a particular colour will appear on your bleached hair.
- Level 7 (Dark Blonde): At this level, you can achieve darker shades like coppers, reds, and darker vibrant colours like teal or deep purple.
- Level 8 (Medium Blonde): This level opens doors to more vibrant shades of pink, purple, and blue, as well as lighter reds and coppers.
- Level 9 (Light Blonde): Almost any colour will show up true to tone at this level. Pastels, brights, and light blondes are all achievable.
- Level 10 (Platinum Blonde): This is the lightest possible level, allowing for the most accurate and vibrant colour results, especially with pastels.
The lighter your hair is bleached, the more accurately the new colour will reflect its true shade. However, reaching a level 10 often requires multiple bleaching sessions and can be quite damaging to the hair. Assess your hair’s health and desired colour before deciding on the level of lift.
Porosity and Colour Absorption
Bleached hair is inherently more porous than virgin hair. This porosity impacts how well your hair absorbs and retains colour. Highly porous hair tends to grab colour quickly but also fades faster. Low porosity hair can be resistant to colour initially, but once the colour takes, it may last longer.
To combat issues related to porosity, consider using protein fillers or colour depositing conditioners before or after dyeing. These products help even out the hair’s porosity, promoting even colour absorption and longevity.
Choosing the Right Colour for Your Bleached Hair
The colour wheel is your best friend when it comes to understanding colour theory and predicting how a colour will appear on bleached hair. Consider the undertones in your bleached hair and choose a colour that complements or neutralizes them.
Understanding Undertones
Bleached hair often has yellow or orange undertones. These undertones can influence the final result of your chosen hair colour.
- Yellow Undertones: If your hair has yellow undertones, colours with blue or purple bases will help neutralize the yellow and create a more balanced tone.
- Orange Undertones: If your hair has orange undertones, colours with blue or green bases will help neutralize the orange.
Types of Hair Dye for Bleached Hair
Several types of hair dye are suitable for bleached hair, each with its own pros and cons.
- Semi-Permanent Dye: This type of dye coats the hair shaft and lasts for about 6-8 washes. It’s a good option for experimenting with colour without long-term commitment. Semi-permanent dyes are generally less damaging than permanent dyes.
- Demi-Permanent Dye: Demi-permanent dyes contain a low-volume developer, allowing them to penetrate the hair shaft slightly. They last for around 24-28 washes and can blend grey hairs or add tone, but they won’t lighten your hair.
- Permanent Dye: Permanent dyes contain ammonia and a developer, which allows them to penetrate deeply into the hair shaft and permanently alter the hair’s colour. While they offer the most long-lasting results, they can also be the most damaging. Avoid using permanent dyes on already bleached hair unless you’re trying to return to a natural shade, and always do a strand test first.
- Direct Dyes: These dyes are applied directly to the hair without a developer. They are often used for vibrant colours and pastels and are generally less damaging than other types of dye. Direct dyes can fade quickly, especially on porous hair. Colour depositing conditioners can help maintain the vibrancy.
- Toners: Toners are used to neutralize unwanted undertones in bleached hair, such as yellow or orange. They typically contain purple or blue pigments and are available in demi-permanent or semi-permanent formulas.
Popular Colour Choices for Bleached Hair
The possibilities are endless when it comes to colouring bleached hair, but some colours are particularly popular and flattering.
- Pastels: Pastel shades like pink, lavender, and baby blue look stunning on light blonde hair. However, achieving true pastel shades requires a very light base, ideally a level 9 or 10.
- Vibrant Colours: Bright and bold colours like pink, blue, green, and purple are a popular choice for bleached hair. These colours tend to show up true to tone and create a statement look.
- Reds and Coppers: Red and copper tones add warmth and vibrancy to bleached hair. These colours can be achieved on darker blonde bases, but they may require multiple applications to achieve the desired intensity.
- Ash Blonde and Silver: Ash blonde and silver tones are trendy choices for bleached hair. These colours require a very light base and the use of toners to neutralize yellow undertones.
- Ombre and Balayage: Ombre and balayage techniques involve gradually blending different colours, creating a natural and dimensional look. These techniques are particularly effective on bleached hair, allowing for a seamless transition between colours.
Preparing Your Hair for Colouring
Proper preparation is key to achieving successful and long-lasting colour results on bleached hair.
Assessing Hair Health
Before colouring, carefully assess the health of your hair. If your hair is dry, brittle, or damaged, it’s crucial to address these issues before applying colour. Deep conditioning treatments, protein masks, and bond-building treatments can help strengthen and repair damaged hair. Do not colour your hair if it’s severely damaged, as this can lead to further breakage.
Strand Test: A Crucial Step
Always perform a strand test before applying colour to your entire head. This will allow you to see how the colour will look on your hair and assess any potential allergic reactions or sensitivities.
- Apply the dye to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Leave the dye on for the recommended time and then rinse it out.
- Evaluate the colour and condition of the hair before proceeding with the full application.
Protecting Your Skin and Clothes
Wear gloves and an old t-shirt or salon cape to protect your skin and clothes from staining. Apply a barrier cream, such as petroleum jelly, along your hairline to prevent the dye from staining your skin.
Applying the Colour: Step-by-Step Guide
The application process will vary depending on the type of dye you’re using, but here’s a general guide to follow:
- Read the Instructions: Carefully read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your chosen dye.
- Mix the Dye: Mix the dye according to the instructions, using a non-metallic bowl and applicator brush.
- Section Your Hair: Divide your hair into small, manageable sections.
- Apply the Dye: Apply the dye evenly to each section, starting at the roots and working your way to the ends.
- Process the Dye: Allow the dye to process for the recommended time, checking the colour periodically.
- Rinse the Dye: Rinse the dye thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear.
- Condition Your Hair: Apply a deep conditioner to help replenish moisture and seal the hair cuticle.
Caring for Your Coloured Bleached Hair
Proper aftercare is essential for maintaining the vibrancy and health of your coloured bleached hair.
Washing Your Hair Less Frequently
Washing your hair too often can strip the colour and dry out your hair. Try to wash your hair only 2-3 times per week. Use a sulphate-free shampoo and conditioner designed for colour-treated hair.
Using Colour-Safe Products
Sulphates, parabens, and alcohol can strip colour and dry out your hair. Use colour-safe shampoos, conditioners, and styling products to prolong the life of your colour.
Avoiding Heat Styling
Heat styling can damage bleached hair and cause colour to fade faster. Limit your use of heat styling tools and always use a heat protectant spray before styling.
Deep Conditioning Regularly
Bleached hair needs extra moisture to stay healthy and hydrated. Deep condition your hair once or twice a week to replenish moisture and prevent breakage.
Protecting Your Hair from the Sun
Sun exposure can fade hair colour and damage the hair shaft. Wear a hat or use a UV protectant spray when spending time outdoors.
Touch-Ups and Maintenance
Depending on the type of dye you used, you may need to touch up your colour every few weeks to maintain vibrancy. Root touch-ups may also be necessary if you’re covering up your natural hair colour.
Remember that bleached hair is fragile and needs extra care and attention. With the right products and techniques, you can keep your coloured bleached hair looking healthy and vibrant.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Even with careful planning, issues can arise when colouring bleached hair.
Uneven Colour Absorption
This can happen if your hair is unevenly bleached or has varying levels of porosity. Use a protein filler before colouring to even out porosity.
Colour Fading Too Quickly
This is common with vibrant colours and pastels. Use colour-depositing shampoos and conditioners to maintain vibrancy.
Unwanted Tones
Toners can help neutralize unwanted yellow or orange tones. Choose a toner with the appropriate pigment to counteract the unwanted tones.
Hair Damage and Breakage
This can occur if your hair is over-processed or not properly cared for. Use bond-building treatments and deep conditioning masks to repair damage.
Allergic Reactions
Always perform a patch test before colouring your hair to check for any allergic reactions. If you experience itching, redness, or swelling, discontinue use immediately.
By understanding the nuances of bleached hair, choosing the right colours, and following proper application and aftercare techniques, you can achieve stunning and long-lasting colour results. Remember to prioritize the health of your hair throughout the process, and don’t be afraid to experiment with different colours and techniques to find your perfect look.
What factors should I consider before choosing a colour to put over bleached hair?
Before diving into colour choices, consider the current condition and tone of your bleached hair. Bleached hair is porous and more susceptible to damage, so opt for gentler, ammonia-free options like semi-permanent or demi-permanent colours. Also, assess the underlying yellow or orange tones in your bleached hair. These tones can significantly impact the final result, potentially leading to unexpected shades. A colour wheel can be helpful in understanding how different colours will react with these underlying tones.
Consider your desired colour level and longevity. If you’re aiming for a subtle change or a temporary look, a toner or semi-permanent colour would be suitable. For a more permanent transformation, demi-permanent or permanent dyes might be preferred, but remember these can be more damaging to already bleached hair. Always perform a strand test before applying any colour to your entire head to ensure you’re happy with the final result and that your hair can handle the process.
Can I use permanent hair dye directly after bleaching my hair?
Using permanent hair dye directly after bleaching is generally not recommended due to the potential for severe damage. Bleaching already weakens the hair structure, and the added chemicals in permanent dye can exacerbate the damage, leading to breakage, dryness, and split ends. It is best to give your hair some time to recover and rehydrate after bleaching before applying another chemical process.
Waiting at least a week, or even longer depending on the condition of your hair, is advisable. During this time, focus on deep conditioning treatments and moisturizing hair masks to replenish lost moisture and strengthen the hair fibers. Alternatively, opt for a gentler option like a demi-permanent or semi-permanent dye, which contains less harsh chemicals and is less likely to cause further damage to your hair.
What are the best types of hair colour to use on bleached hair for minimal damage?
Semi-permanent and demi-permanent hair colours are generally considered the best options for bleached hair with minimal damage. These types of dyes don’t contain ammonia or peroxide in high concentrations, so they deposit colour onto the hair shaft rather than lifting the cuticle. This results in less stress and breakage for already weakened strands.
Toners are another good choice, especially for neutralizing unwanted yellow or orange tones. They are specifically formulated to deposit subtle colour and are typically low in ammonia. Vegetable dyes, like henna or indigo, can also be used to add colour and even strengthen the hair, although they may not provide the exact shade desired and can be tricky to remove later.
How do I neutralize brassy tones in bleached hair before colouring?
Neutralizing brassy tones is crucial for achieving a clean and vibrant colour result on bleached hair. Brassiness is caused by the underlying yellow or orange pigments that are revealed during the bleaching process. These unwanted tones can interfere with the intended colour and lead to a muddy or dull appearance.
Using a purple shampoo or toner specifically designed for blonde or bleached hair is the most common and effective method. Purple is the opposite of yellow on the colour wheel, so it helps to cancel out the brassy tones, leaving you with a more neutral base. Apply the purple shampoo or toner according to the product instructions, usually for a few minutes, and rinse thoroughly.
What colours are difficult to achieve on bleached hair and why?
Achieving certain colours on bleached hair can be particularly challenging, especially if aiming for very specific shades. Pastel colours, like light pink or lavender, can be difficult to maintain because bleached hair is porous and tends to fade quickly. These light shades require a very light and even base to show up properly, and any remaining yellow tones can alter the final result.
Darker colours, like black or very dark brown, can sometimes turn out uneven or fade to an undesirable green or blue hue on bleached hair. This is because the bleached hair is highly absorbent and may not hold onto the darker pigments evenly. Also, the porosity of the hair can cause the darker pigments to oxidize and reveal underlying green or blue tones over time.
How can I make hair colour last longer on bleached hair?
Making hair colour last longer on bleached hair requires a dedicated aftercare routine focused on hydration and colour protection. Bleached hair is porous, meaning it loses colour more quickly than virgin hair. Therefore, using colour-safe shampoos and conditioners formulated for bleached hair is crucial for preventing premature fading.
Additionally, avoid washing your hair too frequently, and use lukewarm or cool water when you do wash it. Hot water opens the hair cuticle, allowing colour to escape. Incorporate deep conditioning treatments and hair masks into your routine to replenish moisture and seal the hair cuticle, helping to lock in colour. Heat styling can also fade colour quickly, so use heat protectant sprays and minimize the use of hot tools like straighteners and curling irons.
What are the potential risks of colouring already bleached hair?
Colouring already bleached hair comes with potential risks, primarily related to further damage and uneven colour results. The bleaching process weakens the hair’s structure, making it more susceptible to breakage, split ends, and dryness. Applying another chemical process, such as dyeing, can exacerbate these problems and lead to significant hair damage.
Uneven colour absorption is another risk, especially if the bleaching process was not done uniformly. Patches of hair that are more or less bleached will absorb colour differently, resulting in a patchy or inconsistent final result. It’s always advisable to perform a strand test before applying colour to the entire head to assess how the hair will react and minimize the risk of unwanted outcomes.